You are welcome in Jordan! er, maybe not.

I am on my way from Damascus to Amman by service taxi. Have been traveling for a bit more than 2 years now. Been to 29 countries so far. See my previous post on my experience at the Jordanian embassy in Ankara.

Stamping out of Syria at the Naseeb border was easy, though there were multiple stops. The taxi driver took care of everything. Customs just waved us through. I even got a smile.

First on the Jordanian side was luggage check. They seemed to be taking their time with bags. But luckily again they didnt bother with me too much.

On to immigration. I head to the Foreigner queue. The guy (call him J1) says "Welcome" since I had started with "Hi, how are you ?". On seeing my Indian passport his friendliness disappeared. He saw my Jordanian visa, obtained in Ankara (Turkey), and said "it is over". This is something I get all the time. I pointed to him that what he is looking at is the issue-date, and it is valid for another month and a half. J1 says "where do you want to go in Jordan ?". I say "Petra, but maybe Jerash, Wadi Rum". J1 asks "what is your occupation ?". I say "computer engineer". He puts my passport on the side, and says "wait". That is a bad sign. He takes care of 3 more people - Indonesians ? - who are in line after me.

The other passenger in my taxi - a Syrian teenager (say S1) who spoke excellent English - came & asked me if everything is ok. J1 looked at him sternly and said something in Arabic. S1 said "afwan" (sorry) & went away.

I waited for a few more minutes. A couple of senior officials (J2 & J3) - also extremely unfriendly - look at my passport & ask me again "what is your occupation ?". I answer again, and they dont understand my accent. He looks at my bulging sweater pocket & asks what I have there. I say my Blackberry phone & he says "computer ?". I reply in the negative.

I am then asked to accompany another two officials - J4 & J5 - to their room for "interrogation". I am used to it now. I was born in a shitty country with a filthy skin color. How the f*** do I dare to travel like white people crossing borders whenever I want!

J4 speaks decent English. J5 is mostly silent, or occasionally asks in Arabic for J4 to translate to me. J4 asks me details like "father's name", "place of birth" etc. I guess to compare against the passport. He writes down everything I say in detail.

He asks "where did you go before Syria ?". I say "Turkey". "Before that ?" "Iran". "And before Iran ?" "Oman".

"Why ? Why are going to all these places ?"
"I am traveling all over Africa & Middle East. I have been traveling for the last 2 years."

"Where did you go in Iran ?"
"Shiraz, Yazd

"Yazd ?"

"Yes ... Y A Z D"
"And"
"Esfehan, Kashan for the beautiful houses, Tehran, Abyaneh"

"What is this visa ?" (pointing at my passport)
"Ethiopia"
"And this ?"
"Djibouti"

"Where did you go in Yemen ?"
"Sanaa for 2 days, and then Socotra"

"Socotra ?"
"Yes. 4 days. One of the most beautiful places on the planet"

"Do you know anyone in Yemen ?"
"No."

"What is your occupation ?"
"computer engineer"

"where ?"
"In San Francisco, California"

"How many years did you work there ?"
"Almost 10"

"where did you study ?"
"I did my Masters in the US"

"where ?"
"New York"

"when ?"
"1999"

"In America ..." (now smiling ... he translates it to his boss)

They now offer me tea. I repeatedly refuse, but they insist. So I take it. I am not shitty or filthy anymore.

"Are you working now ?"
"no"

"what is the name of your last company ?"
"xxx"

"After Jordan, where ?"
"Egypt"

"how ?"
"from Aqaba to Dahab by ferry"

"where do you want to go in Jordan ?"
"Mainly Petra"

"Why Petra ?"
I was stunned by that question. Why indeed should I bother to go this wretched country.
"To see the ruins" (what else!)

"And"
"Amman"

"where do you stay in Amman"
" I have a booking. Here is the confirmation" (i show him the printout indicating I have already paid for tonight)

"Do you know anyone in Amman ?"
"Yes. A friend from California"

"And after Petra & Amman"
"Maybe if I have time & money, to Wadi Rum, Jerash"

"Dead sea"
"Maybe"

"Jerusalem" (Israel)
"Maybe. If i have money. Israel is expensive"

J5 speaks up : "Maybe or sure ?"
"Maybe"

(J4) "What is your religion ?"
"Human" (that is my standard answer anywhere. I am agnostic, but respect all religions)

(J4 is upset, & asks in a stern voice) "Are you a Muslim ?"
"My parents are Hindu, so you can say I am Hindu"

"Hindu ?"
"yes"

"Where you get money ?"
"I worked in software for 8 years & saved"

"why you travel ?"
"That is my dream. And I also want to inspire millions of newly rich young Indians to travel like me. I want to write a book."

"Indians ? Where money from ?"
"Lot of software people in India get paid well" (he doesnt believe it going by his looks)

J4 translates the thing about book to J5 & he has a cruel smile.

By this time it looks like they are happy with my explanation. J4 says "Welcome to Jordan".
"Is everything ok ?"
"Yes. Wait outside for 2 mins."

I close the door & go outside. It took 10 mins. Not a good sign. Another officer - J6 - goes in & takes my passport. Doesnt respond to my smile. Goes to the immigration country & then comes back & calls me. Says with a rude smile - "kalas" (it is over!). I think it is a bad joke. The other officer in the room - J7 - says "You cant enter Jordan. you have to go back to Syria"

I still wonder if it is a bad joke.

"But why ? He (J4) said everything is ok. He told me 'welcome'"

"I don't know. It is not my business."

"Please"
"Please what ?"

"Is there anything I can do ?"
"No. It is over. You have to go back"

"Please. Please. I am a real traveler."
"What do you want me to do ?

"Can I talk to him - J4 - again ?"
"But he has already made the decision"

"Please, please"
"Ok. Let us go"

to J4: "Hi. You said everything is ok. You said welcome. What happened ?"
J4 : "you cant enter"

"But why ?"
"I dont know. my manager said no"

"can I talk to your manager"
"no" ( J4 & J5 are now very unfriendly)

"so what can I do ?"
"You get a new visa in Damascus & then try"

"but I have a valid visa"
"It is not from Damascus"

"please"
"I cant do anything"

I come out of the room, and talk to J6.
"Why did they reject me ?"
"I dont know"

"Is it because I went to Iran"

"You went to Iran ?"

"yes."
"that is why"

"What can I do ? Should i try again ?"
"honestly, no. You cant enter by land"

"can I fly to Amman"
"maybe. Best thing is to tear the Iranian visa/stamp or get a new passport"

"Really ?"
"Yes"

"Please, please. Is there anything I can do ? I am Indian ... we don't do bad things"
" I know. I trust you. You are breaking my heart by saying please so many times"

As he starts walking me back towards the Syrian side ... (it is definitely over)
"You speak with an American accent. Did you live there ?"
"Yes. For 10 years."

"Why didnt you get an American passport ? You will not have any problems"
"I know. But I always intended to go back to India & India does not allow dual passports"

I ask ...
"Would it help if I had white skin ?"
"Maybe" (smiling)

"What did you do in America ? And what will you do in India ?"
"Software. I am planning to start my own software company in India & America"

"Software ? what type of software ?"
"finance. money management"

"what do you think of my english"
"Very good. i can understand everything you say"

"really. thank you. I didnt study in school. I learnt myself"
"wow. You are very good'

"thank you. I listen to American radio & tv & music" (smiling)
"That is a good way to learn"

"But I cant practice"
"yes, that is a big problem"

"I will find you a taxi. then you can go to the Syrian side"
"no problem. Thank you very much for being so nice to me"

"You are welcome"

"what do I do with all these Jordan brochures ?"
"no use"

"And they said "welcome to jordan""
"Not this time"

"thank you very much"
"ok"

Why do you want to visit Petra ?

For the Jordanian government & embassy folks, here are some guidelines - do's and don'ts, mostly the latter - on getting more Indian tourists. All this is from personal experience.

1) First, learn to smile. Please. Even if the guy... in front of you is a savage brown guy whose country does not happen to sit on oil or some other shit like that.

2) Do not ask the guy to "go back to your country". That is shameful, not to mention, quite rude.

3) Do not ask the guy "why do you want to visit the country", after he has already told you that he is a traveler & has been wandering the globe for 2 years.

4) Do not ask the guy "what places do you plan to visit" , after 3). It is irritating.

5) Do not ask as followup "why do you want to visit Petra". To see sand & camels of course! How simple is that.

6) On delivering the visa do not say "i have given you the visa, but they may still not allow you at the border". I know that. It is true for any country. Learn from the Zambian Embassy (in Pretoria) & Sri Lankan Immigration (at Colombo Airport). They both said "Enjoy your stay in our country" . Is that too much to ask ?

7) In spite of all that, when the guy receiving the visa tells you "Thank you" , please care to smile or to say "welcome". Pleaaaase.

Well, I hope somebody from the Jordanian immigration is reading this.